St. Jean Pied du Port to Orisson

The Michelin Guide is a small, concise booklet with lots of information but what it excels at is pictures! After planes, trains and busses the area we will walk on our first day shows a fairly significant elevation change. The albergue we will walk to is the second little yellow hut on this simple diagram. Easy-peasy, only 7.5 km (4.6 miles) and I’ve climbed Katahdin and Mount Washington (summer and winter) so I was going to bust this out.

Much discussion had taken place prior to our travels about comments noted on several Camino Facebook groups describing the first three days as rather challenging. We believed we were prepared.

Our first night in St. Jean Pied du Port at the Beilari, an albergue inside a charming 17th century building with our even more charming hosts Joseph and Jacline, was fabulous. This particular albergue is the bellwether we would measure all the remaining alburgues against. (More about that in a later post). The accommodations were clean and comfortable. We joined the other pilgrims staying there for the nightly Pilgrim Dinner. On the delightful, walled terrace a three-course, vegetarian meal was served. Our host spoke 5 languages and told stories to all the pilgrims switching seamlessly from one to another so everyone at the tables understood. The hosts even provide a bagged lunch (5 euro) for the next day to any pilgrim who requests one.

The Beilari is above average as alburgues go, a place for everything and everything in its place. Boots and packs stay downstairs on the terrace, your bag containing the necessities for the evening and morning is the only thing you can bring to the room. Disposable sheets and pillow sleeves (we did not encounter a single standard pillowcase anywhere on the Camino probably because Spanish pillows are long and narrow) are issued and the bathroom facilities are shared. The Beilari is situated in the middle of this charming town with parks and beautiful architecture within easy walking distance.

Early to bed (on the third floor) because in the morning we would actually begin our Camino. First order of business was to ship ahead to Santiago, our suitcase containing clean clothes and items we decided we didn’t need to bring in our packs. So with our bagged lunch carefully stowed in Val’s pack, we set off.

Our destination for this first day is a spot somewhere on the other side of the mountain seen in the top middle of this picture. The temperature was pleasant and the terrain seemed more than comfortable for walking. My pack was comfortably riding on my hips, shoulder straps were not pulling on my shoulders and my enthusiasm was the highest it would be for the remainder of the trip.

It didn’t take very long for the temperature and the terrain to climb to uncomfortable levels. The zig-zag switchbacks became gravel, then bigger stones and finally a combination of both. There were many pilgrims on the trail but it made for pleasant company. Groups and singles, some whizzing by as if they had an appointment to keep, other leisurely strolling as I passed them. Since I walk faster than Val, I was usually ahead but kept checking behind me to make sure I could see her hat. If I could find a tree and some shade, I would wait until she caught up, we’d have a drink of water and maybe a snack, then onward.

At some point a few hours into the walk, a medical helicopter flew overhead and then landed at a point beyond where I could see it. The trail had now become a shadeless series of switchbacks of orange gravel, stones and roots. The elevation had increased significantly and the temperature, according to my phone, was 94 degrees (34C). Walking had become a series of counting steps. 10, okay my next goal was 20 steps, rest, let’s do 30, rest… Val’s hat was no longer visible but the terrain made it difficult to see very far below me. I was on a roll and needed to find some shade.

Coming around a corner I saw the helicopter perched on probably the only flat place on the entire trail, fluorescent yellow and medical personnel milling about. (For some reason I didn’t think to take any photos because my mind was focused on finding some shade, oh and did I mention Val had all the food in her pack!) Coming down the trail in front of me was an all-terrain vehicle with a full compliment of paramedics and a person on a backboard strapped to the back. A pilgrim had succumbed to the heat and was going to be airlifted out. A curt reminder the trail is in command.

Back to counting steps, taking drinks of water and whining to myself about my pack all the while hoping against hope the albergue was just around the next corner. I found a large granite stone, in full sun, to sit on because I was unable to go another step further. I did notice a large group of trees ahead on the trail and convinced myself the oasis ahead was worth the struggle. No sign of Val despite stopping numerous times but I decided I would wait for her in the shade of the trees.

And there is the shade of the trees would be the first of my many Camino miracles. Three women, obviously walking together, invited me to sit and relax. I told them I was waiting for my sister to catch up. I removed my shoes and socks, had a drink of water and they offered me some food from their stash when I told them my sister had all the food in her pack. Looking back down the trail, I saw Val sitting on the very same granite I had only vacated a short time ago and was relieved to see she had made it to that point. We had a lovely conversation. It’s easy to communicate with Pilgrims as we all have one thing in common, our feet. Segues into other conversations come easily after comparing blisters and sock choices. I kept an eye out for Val, waiting for her to get up and when she finally did, I put on my shoes and socks but soon realized the woman who had been sitting wasn’t actually my sister! It was decided. I would make it to the albergue, leave my pack and head back down the trail to find her.

My new friends, Malu, Maya and Ruby, decided to walk with me until we reached the albergue. Several more hopeful curves, each lacking the structure we sought, but the camaraderie between us was like a good wind, pushing us to get there.

There is no way to adequately describe the emotion one feels when, after a serious endeavor, the prize is in sight. I suddenly had a spring in my step, my pack felt lighter and there would be food. A bit of fortification before I back tracked and tried to find my sister. (There is nothing I dislike more than moving in a backward direction, to say nothing of having the delight of climbing back up the trail).

I took off my pack and left it with the large pile of packs from other pilgrims. It seems counterintuitive to leave the entire contents of one’s life in a pile. The Camino provides and in this case, it provides honesty. No one bothers your pack.

I entered the albergue, it was cool and dark, with many pilgrims milling about. One pilgrim in particular seemed to think it was OK to approach me and hug me. The words “what the f*** are you doing here?” fell out of my mouth as my sister hugged me.

The Camino is not only a trail to walk but it is also utilized by cars, trucks, busses, scooters, bikes and all manner of mechanized vehicles. This particular part of the trail is surrounded by farms and farmers need to get to their fields which means sometimes you have to actually get off the trail to let them by. Val flagged down the driver of one such vehicle and without being able to speak French, communicated to him she needed a ride and would pay. As they drove by me on the trail, she said she didn’t know how to make him stop.

I think a simple slap to the back of the head would have sufficed.

Ultreya,

“Holy Sneakers 500”